In 2023, leaders of the Amazon nations gathered in Belém—the venue of COP30—to discuss the rainforest’s future ahead of the United Nations climate conference. The atmosphere was electric—more than 20,000 people filled the summit halls from heads of state to farmers and activists. But when we stepped out of the giant conference complex, all we could find were fast food outlets and three food trucks.
At the meeting, we were debating how to protect the most precious, biodiverse biomes in the whole world, yet the only food choices available were likely accelerating their destruction.
“Why shouldn’t we serve food from our farms?” asked my colleague, an Amazonian farmer who also runs a catering business. It was then and there, some of us decided that COP had to be different.
At Instituto Regenera, we work to create markets in Brazil for agroecological farmers, for food that is cultivated without pesticides, that improves soil health, promotes diversity and enhances biodiversity protection. We saw COP30 as an incredible opportunity to serve food directly from local farmers to our international guests. This would not only boost livelihoods but also present climate solutions on a plate.
In February, the Brazilian government announced that 30 percent of food served at COP30 will be sourced from family farms, Indigenous producers, and agroecology cooperatives. We calculated that this will generate at least $600,000 for these farmers. On top of that, 30 percent of the restaurants will be local. This was welcome news for the farmer-run catering services.
Inside the Blue Zone at COP30—where the technical negotiations and high-level plenaries take place— there will be restaurants run by Indo-Amazonian farmers and Indigenous producers, all serving locally grown food from agroecological farms. The largest catering operation at COP is a network of agroecological farmers across Brazil, with profits invested back into communities with a multiplier effect.
But it’s more than just the money. By bringing in farmers as chefs, servers and community leaders into the same space as leaders and negotiators, we’re elevating a new and different conversation at COP. It’s a literal Trojan horse for a different dialogue on food. It’s a chance for them to make the link between what we eat and how this connects to climate change.
Food systems contribute nearly a third to greenhouse gas emissions annually and account for 15 percent of fossil fuel use yearly. Food producers—small-holder farmers, traditional fishers, and pastoralists—are on the frontlines of increasingly deadly climate impacts. Food is slowly rising up on the climate agenda. There is now a dedicated Food Day and a Food and Agriculture pavilion, but the climate negotiations must take into consideration the full spectrum of transforming fossil-fuel-dependent, industrialized food systems.
We also want to remind attendees that food is more than its emissions. It’s a celebration, a way of protecting rainforests and connecting to each other, storing carbon and a source of livelihoods. By tasting the star-shaped Carambola fruit, we can talk about how its small, pink flowers attract pollinators and hummingbirds throughout the year, and how its wide canopy regulates microclimates and helps reduce soil erosion.
Or how the cacao grown in agroforestry systems under shade, simmered into the earthy stew at COP, stores carbon, preserves forest biodiversity, and buffers temperature extremes.
Far from the high-level negotiations, this is a direct, tangible line to how food is a climate solution for leaders at COP, and not merely a source of emissions.
What’s more, this experience will allow us to see the barriers and risks for smallholder farmers when we create markets. It’s not glamorous, analyzing bottlenecks over storage and transport, farmers’ access to credit, but it’s what food systems transformation looks like on the ground. It will be challenging, but we will learn lots of lessons as we try to serve 200 people at a time and navigate COP’s complicated logistics.
Food doesn’t always have a good reputation at COP; the long lines, expensive fare and normally ultra-processed choices are a source of frustration. At COP30, food will no longer be an afterthought—it will be a statement. Every plate will tell a story of soil regenerating, farmers thriving, and forests standing tall.
“At COP30, food won’t just be served—it will be a statement. Every plate will tell a story: of soil regenerating, farmers thriving, and forests standing tall. If we want climate action to be real, we need to start where it all begins—with food.”
Articles like the one you just read are made possible through the generosity of Food Tank members. Can we please count on you to be part of our growing movement? Become a member today by clicking here.
